Floor rails are 1 3/4 inches apart, same width as a 2 x 2 or a 2 x 4 ripped in half. Lay them side by side on edge so the wood grain is right for strength, pull em up tight and nail or screw every other one, then remove the ones you did not secure down and you will have a uniform space between each.
Do about 6 to 10 at a time then move on. For the 8 ft by 4 foot walk it takes 32 2 x 2's, 8- 2 x 4's cut in half and then ripped longways in half or 16 2 x 2 cut in half. The floor rails will be closer to 41 inches wide because you run the side rails on the inside of the legs. Nail the front and rear cross members all the way to the outside edge of the legs. Nail it to the face of the legs and to the end of the side rails (interlocks it for strength). Remember to drill a pilot hole in each end of the floor rail so your screw or 16 nail don't split it.
I do not use treated wood on the floor, the crap sticks to the treated wood. The whole purpose is so the waste falls through to the ground. The dog has a clean kennel year round whether it's winter and you can't clean them or just lazy like me. The dog is still clean, dry and healthy. If you look at the pics you can see the bottom side rails are 10 ft long and 2 ft is left sticking out the back for the house to be attached. They don't have to be just like mine to work, but any mods or variations does void all warranty... lol.
But seriously, if you want a porch for the dog or what ever feel free to improve them and have at it. These pictured of mine are about the 4th improved version since I built my first ones too many years ago...you may have to replace some floor rails from time to time, maybe the roof and hinges and things over the years, but they will last longer then a dog lives.
I use all treated wood except for floor and plywood. I use plywood sheathing its cheaper priced.
• 4 - 8 foot 4 x 4 - legs
• 2 -10 ft 2 x 4 - Bottom side rails
• 6 - 8 ft 2 x 4 - Top rails, cross members front and rear. Door and roof supports.
• 8 - 8 ft untreated 2 x 4 for floor rails ripped, 4 -2 x 2's out of each or 16 8 ft 2 x 2 cut in half.
• 4 x 8 5/8 to 3/4 Plywood for front with door.
• 4 x 8 Plywood for house/plus use whats left over from front and door.
• 4 x 8 sheet of 1/2 inch Plywood for roof/run one 2 x 4 down the middle on edge under the roof so it bows in the
middle for run off.
• Nails 16's and 8's. Deck screws work better.
• 16 ft of 36 inch fence for sides. Put the side rails 34 inches apart so you got room to attach fence. The dog will
actually have about 40 inches or better from floor to roof.
• 4 ft Piano hinge - half for the door and half for the lift up roof on house.
• Gate latch.
I don't build the houses anymore,i use the metal covered insulated Amish made houses.
Wire on sides is welded rod fence or screen they use at factories for parts baskets. Chain link or heavy welded wire fence will work just fine.
Used these style kennels for 37 yrs now. Never had a foot or leg problem or a no excercise problem. A dog can pace just as much in one or more as they can on dirt, cement kennels, or on a chain. HUNT EM BOYS, HUNT EM.
You can move them too. One nice thing about them is you can space them apart as far as you want, you dont get the face barking started with pups and stuff from the git go, like some dogs do in side by side ground kennels. If you build them right they are firm standing and do not wobble.
Some dogs will piss in their house in these kennels, make it so you can feed in the dog house if you need, that will stop the in house bathroom problems WITH MOST. So make lift up roofs on your dog houses.
I do not let my females whelp pups in these kennels. I dont put dogs under 3 months old in them either and one dog per kennel. I have seen some dogs show a higher anxiety being up off the ground causing them to pace and chew more. Thats the skinny on the TC condos. THE GOOD, BAD, AND UGLY. I will answer all ? you have if I know the answer or if you have a problem or ? building yours...................TC (look me up on the CoonDawgs.com forum, username Toe Cutter)