Had the same problem, what I finally did was back up to a snow pile or dirt or rock pile, anything that makes the jump up in the back lower. Start by walking them up the pile and right into the back. After you do that a few times increase the distance they have to jump up in the truck. Getting a little higher each time. When they loaded up I would have a treat for them. When I go now all I have to do is open the tailgate and the dog will load up real nice. I have a young pup that I need to do this with now also. He is getting heavy to lift.

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I will try that....maybe that will build up their confidence a little so they will jump in just on flat ground-- mine are pretty dang heavy too ...does anyone think it's okay for them to ride in the back of the truck without a dog box? I don't have one now and they seem to do fine, but it seems like everyone else uses one.

u best have em' chained down.. id like to kick everyone in the @$$ that let their dogs ride in the back without them being chained

yeah, they're chained .....just wonderin if a dog box was better.....

lol didn't mean the "best have em' chained" the way that came out... i just see people around here all the time dogs jump outta the beds of the trucks.. adn its just sad..

yeah, i know.....i've seen it happen a few times

i prefer the dog box because if it rains or snows they aren't in it.. plus debris and stuff get in their eyes.. id on't let my dogs hang their heads out the windows..its not good for them

What do you do when they act to lazy to jump

Remember "YOUR THE BOSS"
If your trying to get them to jump on your tailgate.. put a treat in the dog box.. tease them with the treat.. and make sure he sees you throw it in there.. If he likes your treats.. he will be right in there.. I use hotdogs with my young hounds to get them to load~ Give him a little piece of it.. and then get up in the box of your pick up and tease the hound.. he will jump into get to you and that hot dog..
Some hounds need to go through baby steps.. start them jumping up on lower items such as a small square bale, a car trailer, a horse trailer, a log.... anything you may have around.. Just make sure your hound is having fun!!! Dont make it work for them.. or you will defeat the mission!!

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Ok, long method,use the weinie and get them to jump on anything low to the ground. Teaches them the command and builds confidence. Once they will JUMP on command. Then you can add hight till they get to the required tail gait hight.
Second the e-collar way. It is verry humain when you know how to train (instead of just punish with one). To train one to go any were you want you take a 2'x2' board,lay it on the ground,put your dog on a leash and turn your collar down to were it just barley makes his neck flench when you shock him on the nick button.
The nick gives less shock than you can give by bumping the continous button. Now his neck will barely flench. It is a shock like I wear on my bad back to stemulate my muscles. The doc. perscribed it for me and feels good.
Now start walking your dog in a circle nicking it with a steady rhythm.Telling it to load up. When you come to the board make sure you have your dog beside you so you can make him walk across the board(telling him load up or what ever. When he steps on the board. Stop the nick, stop the walking and pet your dog and tell him GOOD. By the way if you say good when they please you and bad at any bad behavior it will make a big differance in all your training.Now repeat the process.
If your dog allready knows to walk beside you on a leash so it isn't a rodeo to get him to step on the board. Within a few minutes you should be able to stand in the middle of that circle and say load up start the nick and he will go get on that board. After he gets the game you can point at any thing and tell him to load up and he will. If not THEN YOU ARE JUSTIFIED inturning up the heat on the collar and punishing him for not minding. Not to hot though and if he looks confused. He is turn it down and let him think. Help him remember what he has to do to get away from the elec.
I use this method for come,sit ,stay,heal,left,right,back up and every thing else you can imagine. It doesn't hurt the dog, I can call them in from any were at any time. They no the shock isn't for tracking,treeing or any thing else becouse they know I am doing it and why. After they get use to haveing to mind. They are just like a kid. They will mind away from home.
The two bigest mistakes people make with shock collars is shocking the crap out of them when the dog doesn't know why. Or it knows what it done wrong but doesn't realise that the shock is the punishment for that sin.
The other is getting to lazy to reward the dog for it's right response. With out the reward for the good behavior. You can make the dog do what you want but you can't make it like it. A dog that is rewarded well likes to work for you and is way more impressive and reliable.

I use a Dogtra collar. They have a rheostat switch(like a light dimmer switch) so you can split the intensity level up to fit any dog at any stage. From some thing you cant feel on your hand to oh $&&*)$%#^ that hurts. They allso have a vibrate button. That is what I use for a come command when the dogs are a long ways away or can't hear me.
Now don't any one use this method till you have a collar that you can turn down to were your dogs neck just bareley flenchs.
One more thing I should say. When you know your dog knows what he is suppose to do and you turn the heat up becouse he is being stuburn. Once you start the nick you have to not stop till the dog does what it is told. BUT if it looks confused IT IS turn the heat back down. They can't think when they are hurting. It still takes PATIENCE,CONSISTENCY AND REWARD!!!!!!!!!!!
I have allso used this method to make dogs that are deathlly scared of people, to show them that the only safe place was with me. After that they except other people slowley.

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Train don't complain!!!!!
Dawg
Grady Jarvis

On here there is a tip for getting a dog over being gun shy, I used a similar version. Didn't pay the dog much attention for a few days just a little bit of food.
After a few days went out, leashed him up and brought him to the truck and tossed a snack in the back, he was hungry, hesitated then jumped right in.
Got him back out, sit/ stay then tossed a treat in the back and said load up! Love him up good and repeat. Now as soon as we are getting ready to go out the yard I start saying load up and get him excited and havent had to many problems. So pretty much what everyone else said, just used a hungry dog.

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Fly Army

The big differance between the treat method and the e-collar method. Is when the dog doesn't want the treat as bad as he wants to do some thing else. You have no way of forceing or disciplineing your dog. Any time you discipline your dog it should know what it did and what the punishment is for and how to get it to stop. E-collor works way better becouse you never have to apply more force than the dog brings on itself. It knows the command, the punishment for not obeying the command and how to stop the punishment. This way you can keep applying more and more till the dog complys.

I do what bear explained and it has always worked for me an e collar has its good and bad i have one and have used it not for loading . I use it for trash breaking and once to teach a dog to come when called it worked for that i think useing it for loading would make him scared to come out the box to JMO

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keep tree em and goodluck

Forget about the loading, A girl that shoes horses, Be still my heart.

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Rafter K Kennels
Waynoka OK

I just take them about 10 feet from the tail gate. hold the lead about 6in from the collar and run torwards the tailgate throw them up in there and they will start to get the idea works everytime

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Flatrock River Sowder