CoonDawgs.com Coonhound Classifieds and Message Forum

 

It is currently Wed Oct 17, 2018 11:28 pm

All times are UTC - 6 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 61 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next


Author Message
 Post subject: Deer braking
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 10:57 am 
IP:
Offline
Chop Mouth
Chop Mouth

Joined: 27 Nov 2005
Posts: 255
Lets hear the best way to brake a hound from running deer! ( Putting the dog down is NOT an option!)

Buckeyeyoter
Kevin


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  

 

Join the forum today and remove this ad!
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 12:09 pm 
IP:
Offline
Bawl Mouth
Bawl Mouth

Joined: 14 Feb 2007
Posts: 881
Shock collar and fields full of deer! When the dog is younger introducing them to deer a few times a week with the shocker is a good idea to see how they will react. Once it is determined how the dog will react to the smell, take action, or take none. If you decide to take action, you should take the dog one night a week to drop on deer until the problem is solved. Then monthly reminders should be given to reinforce that you don't want your dog chasing Mr. Whitetail all night...

_________________
~PAWALKERS~

OAKS POINT KENNELS
JOE CULLER

HOME OF:
GRNITECH CH 'PR' OAKS POINT COON BUSTIN' BELLE
'PR' OAKS POINT STRIKE-EM OUT BEAU


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject: dogs
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 1:43 pm 
IP:
yep thats the way, i would agree and if you dont have a collar i hope you can run fast and catch him and take a switch and whipp him with it until he learns.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 2:19 pm 
IP:
I think that trips to train dogs on trash should be immediately followed by trips with good game and positive reinforcement. If you have a coon dog you should do your deer breaking at night. If the only time the dog gets out in the daylight is to be broke off deer then you'll have a dog broke on deer in the daylight. Also a good ratio of buck to doe can be helpful on some dogs. I've seen a couple dogs broke off does but would run the hooves off a buck. I had a dog that I had recently purchased that would run deer if he was on the box to long with out a good strike. I took him out and found 2 different deer, a buck and a doe, and turned all my dogs loose on them. Then the electricity flew. The second one they didn't want as bad. I then drove down the road a mile and got a GOOD rig. Turned the dogs loose and treed a bear in about 2 hours. That was this spring and I haven't had a deer race since. It was the PERFECT scenario for breaking the dog. I would test all your dogs at once as well. If the only time that dog is the only dog turned loose then thats what you're training your dog to do.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:15 am 
IP:
Offline
Chop Mouth
Chop Mouth

Joined: 27 Nov 2005
Posts: 255
I have a collar! Just asking a question hoping to start opening up different ideas!
Thanks,
Kevin


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:24 pm 
IP:
Offline
Tight Mouth
Tight Mouth

Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 187
I've been reading Walk With Wick and he has a pretty good ideal for this. Wrap a ball of wire around a deer's scent gland and hang that from an electric fence. When the dog goes to investigate the smell... ZAP!

I will defiantly use this method on my next pup.

_________________
Thanks and God Bless,
Wes Bivens


Top
 Profile  WWW
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 9:41 pm 
IP:
Offline
Tight Mouth
Tight Mouth

Joined: 07 Dec 2006
Posts: 231
Location: NM
TnEMT is definately right and you cant go wrong with a shock collar either. try the walk with wick method first then the collar.

_________________
Mt Lion Hunts Available!
February - May 2014
http://www.arrowheadoutfitters.net/


Image


Top
 Profile  WWW
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:43 am 
IP:
Offline
Silent Mouth
Silent Mouth

Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 92
i took the tarsal glands off of a buttin buck and layed them on the ground then i turned my pup loose on it. at first he flew past it but then a couple of minutes later he came back to it. when he got right over it he felt the electricity fly.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2007 11:33 am 
IP:
Offline
Chop Mouth
Chop Mouth

Joined: 27 Nov 2005
Posts: 255
I like the idea of the Walk with Wick. I never thought of that before! I just happened to have a fench charger in the garage! I will rig a sent ball for each of my hounds with in the reach of their chains! I will leave it on all the time! If they for get and sniff again,,,,, ZAP!!!!!!!!! Reminder!!!!!!!!!:)
This is why started this thread!!! Good ideas!!!
Kevin


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:16 am 
IP:
Offline
Tight Mouth
Tight Mouth

Joined: 18 Mar 2007
Posts: 120
Location: WI
The collar has been the best for me as well.

I have a friend that gets a little more medievil on them though with a brake box. This only works on dogs that are not skittish.

This is how it works.

He builds a box about 2 feet taller than the dogs. Then on one end he places a board about neck high to keep them from moving to much. Attaches an eye bolt on each side so he can cross chain the dog in the box to keep it from moving. Then he takes a sock and puts it over the muzzle. He adds deer scent to the sock. If the dog makes any sound on it they get hit with the cattle prod. He will then wait about 15 minutes and repeat the process again until the dogs wont say a word and kind of try to get away from the scent.

Sounds a bit rough I know, but it does work.


Top
 Profile  WWW
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject: Just in time
PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:53 am 
IP:
Offline
Tight Mouth
Tight Mouth

Joined: 09 Oct 2007
Posts: 130
Location: Louisiana
just in time I'm getting my first young B&T pup an this is what I'm looking for.... I dint have a clue on what I will do about training her to not run deer.. I figured the shock collar part will work but when your in a area full of coons an deer an I herd allot of stories from past coon hunters around here is that a big coon will run the swamp for ever I don't no how true this is but I guess ill learn. So I was wondering what to do because I dint no if I could tell if she's running deer are a coon... thanks for posting this... Brent

my bluetick musiek

Image


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:57 pm 
IP:
Offline
Silent Mouth
Silent Mouth

Joined: 12 Jul 2007
Posts: 59
Location: Florida
If you can't break them, send them to me! I run deer dogs also!

Seriously, I never run mine without shock collars.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:13 am 
IP:
Offline
Bawl Mouth
Bawl Mouth

Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 685
Lots of good thoughts in the posts. In my experience, the key to the whole thing is varying the exposure. We use tritronics throughout the process. We start by releasing a hound out of the box on a deer we can see when driving around. The hound gets to the point (quickly) where he won't run a deer directly out of the box, but may run deer after hunting a while. Then you get to the stage where they can free cast and not run a deer track they come across, but may run a deer they see or one they bumped and the smell is strong, then you get to the point where they jump one right in front of them and get a face full of deer in thier vision and snout and don't run em, then you get to the point where another hound will run a deer in any of the above situations and your hound won't go along. At that point your startin to be able to say your hound is deer broke, not deer resistent as many, many dogs become with some training. Then this needs to translate into long term refusal to run deer in any situation. At this point you can free cast the hound and when he comes by a deer trail (from deer I've seen bumped) or tracks in the mud and snow, if he puts his nose in em I shock him moderatly good, or if he picks his head up, recognizes the scent and is not going to run it I just tickle him or maybe vibrate him. Even sticking his nose in the track doesn't mean he's going to run it, but he's not given the chance to take it any further. In my mind deer breaking has many layers or levels and take years. There's many ways to do it, but the various levels of deer resistence seem to be universal. We've had hounds that would be cold trailing and come into a deer yard and get off the track and return, we've also had hounds run the right game silently after being shocked earlier in the day. Usually these are short term things. I don't worry too much about "ruining" a hound, though I do try to use my shocker judiciously. In my mind if you "ruin" a hound that runs off game, you have not "lost" a complete hound by any means.
Interesting thought about the scent being stronger in the rut and about hounds needing to have both buck and does as part of the equation. I would tend to thing the first is truer than the latter, only because if you were able to break a hound off doe, but have it run buck consistentanly you would have some pretty expensive deer hounds, that favored running bucks over does, for sale at some of those big coonhound prices. I don't have much experience with deer hound circles, maybe this is widely known by deer hound hunters. It be interesting to hear other folks share thier experiences about buck/does and a hound favoring one over the other with some training. good luck, Paul Conway


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject: deer
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:07 pm 
IP:
Offline
Tight Mouth
Tight Mouth

Joined: 08 Dec 2005
Posts: 144
Location: WV
I had a dog that was shocked off deer at least twenty times. Didn't matter. She would continue to run them. a friend of my from Va told me a little trick. He said to throw the dog in a box with a deer hide and shock it with the shocking collar for a period of time.

Works great. No more issues after that. I have seen deer jump up in her face and she just stands there and watches them run away. Then she will walk back to me and stand by my side until I tell her to go hunt.

_________________
Home of Gr Ch Gr Nite Ch 'PR' Cane Spring Tigger
Nite Ch 'PR'N&M's Green Mtn Selena
Ch Nite Ch 'PR' Nathan's Green Mtn Brandy
Ch 'PR' Nathan's Green Mtn Jazz


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Author Message
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 12:52 am 
IP:
Broke my stubborn male off deer with the walk with wick box method. built the box, hung it in a shed, wired it for shock, the whole 9 yards just like it says in the book. after a week let him out and while the other dogs ran a deer he got treed by himself. No deer since and that has been over a year ago. Also works for any other off game. and you dont have to catch em in the act.


Top
  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  

Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 61 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

All times are UTC - 6 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 2 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  



Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group

Want to DISABLE pop-up ads & banners after 1st post of threads? Become a member of the forum & view the forum logged in.

CLICK HERE for more info.

CoonDawgs.com - Your One Stop Coon Dog Source for Coon Hunting!!