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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 2:26 pm 
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Chop Mouth
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im a member of jeepforum.com and if your into jeeping, offroading, or just interested in learning more, the community is HUGE, everyone is always willing to help out and just about any car problem you can have has been answered on there.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 7:30 pm 
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Chop Mouth
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thanks you all that have given me advise and steered me in the right directions

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:32 am 
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Tight Mouth
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When welding around bearings the heat is not what affects the bearing's. It is when you put your ground on the piece of metal and then strike an arc. It causes an arc inside the bearing's and basically welds the bearing together.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 12:14 am 
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Chop Mouth
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Location: Ky
Shane Wade wrote:
When welding around bearings the heat is not what affects the bearing's. It is when you put your ground on the piece of metal and then strike an arc. It causes an arc inside the bearing's and basically welds the bearing together.



yes but there are ways to help prevent that like put ur ground as close to the weld area as possible theres also distortion depending on what it is ur welding like stainless steal or alumium or mild steel they are all affected differently the best thing to do miller is remove the bearing if u can if not then weld small stiches a for ex 1 inch stop let cool DO NOT QUINCH IT WITH WATER then weld another 1 inch countinue this prosseces untill complete ok if it were me id tig weld it more pricess if u have the foot control easy to adjust ur heat but u can make smaller welds i would not tri and stick it at all

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:52 pm 
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Chop Mouth
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the best thing to do miller is remove the bearing if u can if not then weld small stiches a for ex 1 inch stop let cool DO NOT QUINCH IT WITH WATER then weld another 1 inch countinue this prosseces untill complete

definatly, no matter what your welding on or near, even hardened steel, the concentrated heat can cause it to warp, and warped bearings dont go very long


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:25 pm 
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Chop Mouth
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sitdwnandhngon wrote:
Quote:
the best thing to do miller is remove the bearing if u can if not then weld small stiches a for ex 1 inch stop let cool DO NOT QUINCH IT WITH WATER then weld another 1 inch countinue this prosseces untill complete

definatly, no matter what your welding on or near, even hardened steel, the concentrated heat can cause it to warp, and warped bearings dont go very long


u got that right not like they do when not exposed to heat


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:25 pm 
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Tight Mouth
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Joined: 06 Mar 2008
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u-joint caps are made out of tool steel. there are actually a bearing race for those little needle bearings. i dont really see it lasting after you heat it up like that. the steel will anneal itself and go bad or there will be stress at the weld from the hard steel meeting the soft steel and under just a little stress it will break like glass. like spanking a file too hard on a bench.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2008 8:11 pm 
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Silent Mouth
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The answer is much simpler than cutting, welding, tapping, changing bolts, or torching anything. Even if you did all of the above mentioned operations you will probably have the same problem. When your first joint tore up it more than likely broke the centering ear of the yoke end. Look where the joint fits into the yoke, at each end of the cap there should be a tab that sticks up like an 1/8 inch to hold the caps centered. if one is broke off it will walk the cap right off the yoke and spit the shaft. Replace the yoke end and the shaft will stop walking on the yoke and spitting the caps. Yoke shouldn't cost alot at the boneyard or even a new one should be affordable and availible if you find a driveline shop. Just something to look at before you get to deep into causing alot more headaches.

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